LEIGH RADFORD USED A VARIETY OF DRESSY NOVELTY YARNS to embellish this simple, Asian-inspired jacket. The body is knitted in a deep gold with half-circles of celery green knitted in intarsia along the center fronts to form the background for the embroidered border. Smooth and textured yarns in an assorment of spicy colors are stitched along the edges of the sleeves and front openings. The jacket fastens with twenty, tiny hook-and-eye closures.

Finished Size

37 (40, 44, 481⁄2)" (94 [101.5, 112, 123] cm).

Jacket shown measures 40" (101.5 cm).

Yarn
S. R. Kertzer Super 10
(100% mercerized cotton; 249 yd [230 m]/125 g):
#3358 ginger (MC), 4 (5, 5, 6) skeins;
#3911 magenta,
#3606 peridot,
#3395 Persian red, and
#3429 mulberry, 1 skein each.

S. R. Kertzer Sari
(100% polymide; 104 yd [95 m]/50 g):
#52 copper, 1 skein.
DMC Six Strand Embroidery Floss (100% cotton; 8.7 yd [8 m]/skein):
#30915 metallic magenta, 5 skeins;
#30930 metallic blue, 3 skeins;
#30580 metallic lime green,
#33685 metallic brown/rose, and
#924 teal/blue, 2 skeins each.

Needles

Body and sleeves—Size 8 (5 mm): straight.
Collar—Size 6 (4 mm): 32" (80-cm) circular (cir).
I-cord—Size 8 (5 mm): set of 2 double pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

Notions

Stitch holders;
a few yards (meters) of waste yarn;
markers (m);
tapestry needle;
twenty 1⁄4" (6 mm) hook-and-eye sets; 11⁄2 yd (1.5 meter)
matching magenta single bias seam tape;
sharp-pointed sewing needle
matching magenta thread for attaching bias tape and hook-and-eye sets;
size F/6 (4-mm) crochet hook for chained slipstitch embroidery (optional).

Gauge 19 stitches and 28 rows = 4" (10 cm) in St st.

Back

With magenta and larger needles, CO 87 (95, 105, 115) stitches. Knit 2 rows (garter st). Change to MC. Beg with a WS row, knit St st until piece measures 121⁄2 (121⁄2, 111⁄2, 11)" (31.5 [31.5, 29, 28] cm) from beg, ending with a WS row.

Shape armholes: BO 5 stitches beg

of next 2 rows—77 (85, 95, 105) stitches rem. Dec 1 st each end of needle every other row 6 times—65 (73, 83, 93) stitches rem. knit even until armholes measure 31⁄2" (9 cm), ending with a WS row.

Next row: (RS) Mark center 9 stitches for back medallion placement.

Cont knitting stitches on either side of marked center stitches in MC as established, and knit center 9 stitches in St st intarsia according to

Rows 1–9 of Back Medallion chart. When chart is completed, cont in St st with MC until armholes measure 61⁄2 (61⁄2, 71⁄2, 8)" (16.5 [16.5, 19, 20.5] cm), ending with a WS row.

Shape neck:

(RS) K16 (18, 21, 23), join new yarn and BO center 33 (37, 41, 47) stitches, knit to end—16 (18, 21, 23) stitches each side. knitting each side separately, cont in St st for 1" (2.5 cm)—armholes should measure 71⁄2 (71⁄2, 81⁄2, 9)" (19 [19, 21.5, 23] cm).

Shape shoulders:

At each armhole edge, BO 5 (6, 7, 8) stitches 2 times, then BO 6 (6, 7, 7) stitches once.

Right Front

With magenta and larger needles, CO 44 (48, 53, 58) stitches. Knit 2 rows. Cut off magenta and join MC. Set up row: (WS) P38 (42, 47, 52) with MC, place marker (pm), rejoin magenta and knit last 6 stitches as p2 magenta, p2 MC, p2 magenta.

knitting stitches outside chart in St st with MC, knit stitches at center front edge (first 16 stitches of RS rows, last 16 stitches of WS rows) in St st intarsia according to Right Front chart, knitting the 3rd and 4th stitches from the edge of chart every row in MC; the other colors will be added later in duplicate st embroidery. Cont until piece measures 121⁄2 (121⁄2, 111⁄2, 11)" (31.5 [31.5, 29, 28] cm) from beg, ending with a RS row.

Shape armhole:

(WS) BO 5 stitches, knit in patt to end— 39 (43, 48, 53) stitches rem. Keeping in patt, dec 1 st at end of next 6 RS rows—33 (37, 42, 47) stitches rem. Cont even in patt until Row 128 of chart has been completed (WS row)—piece should measure about 181⁄2" (47 cm) from beg; armhole should measure about 6 (6, 7, 71⁄2)" (15 [15, 18, 19] cm).

Shape neck:

(RS) Cont in St st with MC only, BO 12 (14, 16, 19) stitches, knit to end—21 (23, 26, 28) stitches rem. BO 1 st at neck edge every RS row 5 times—16 (18, 21, 23) stitches rem. knit even, if necessary, until armhole measures 71⁄2 (71⁄2, 81⁄2, 9)" (19 [19, 21.5, 23] cm), ending with a RS row.

Shape shoulder:

BO 5 (6, 7, 8) stitches at beg of next 2 WS rows, then BO 6 (6, 7, 7) stitches at beg of foll WS row.

Left Front

With magenta and larger needles, CO 44 (48, 53, 58) stitches. Knit 2 rows.

Set-up row: (WS) P2 magenta, p2 MC, p2 magenta (center front), pm, p38 (42, 47, 52) with MC to end. knitting stitches outside chart in St st with MC, knit stitches at center front edge (last 16 stitches of RS rows, first 16 stitches of WS rows) in St st intarsia according to Left Front chart, knitting the 3rd and 4th stitches from the edge of chart in every row in MC; the other colors will be added later in duplicate st embroidery.

Cont in patt until piece measures 121⁄2 (121⁄2, 111⁄2, 11)" (31.5 [31.5, 29, 28] cm) from beg, ending with a WS row. Cont as for right front, reversing shaping by knitting armhole and shoulder shaping at beg of RS rows, and knitting neck shaping at beg of WS rows.

Sleeves

With magenta and larger needle, CO 70 stitches. Knit 2 rows. Purl the next row (WS) for set-up row of Sleeve chart. knit Rows 1–5 of Sleeve chart as foll:

Row 1: (RS) Knit with magenta.

Rows 2 and 3:knit all stitches in St st with MC, beg with a WS row (the other colors shown will be added in duplicate stitch embroidery).

Rows 4 and 5: Change to magenta and knit in St st.

Cont in patt from chart and knit Rows 6–15 in St st intarsia.

For sizes 37" and 40" only:
Cont in St st with MC only until piece measures 61⁄2" (16.5 cm) from beg, ending with a WS row.

For sizes 44" and 481⁄2" only:
Cont in St st with MC only, and at the same time inc 1 st each end of needle every 4 rows 4 (6) times, then knit even until piece measures 61⁄2" (16.5 cm) from beg, ending with a WS row. There will be 70 (70, 78, 82) stitches.

Shape cap:
BO 5 stitches at beg of next 2 rows—60 (60, 68, 72) stitches rem.

Dec 1 st each end of needle every row 7 times—46 (46, 54, 58) stitches rem.

Dec 1 st each end of needle every other row 13 (13, 17, 19) times—20 stitches rem.

Cont even until cap measures 51⁄2 (51⁄2, 61⁄4, 63⁄4)" (14 [14, 16, 17] cm). BO all stitches.

Finishing

With MC threaded on a tapestry needle, join shoulders seams.

Sew sleeves into armholes. Sew sleeve and side seams. To help prevent rolling of the narrow garter-st band, with magenta threaded on a tapestry needle, knit a running st between CO edge and garter ridge along entire bottom edge of cardigan.

Collar:

With MC and smaller needle, pick up and knit 98 (108, 118, 138) stitches evenly spaced around neck edge.
knit St st for 9 rows, ending with a WS row.

Next row:
(RS) BO 2 stitches, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog—3 stitches dec’d.
Next row: BO 2 stitches, purl to last 2 stitches, p2tog— 92 (102, 112, 132) stitches rem. BO all stitches.

I-cord edging:

With magenta and dpn, CO 2 stitches.
knit attached I-cord as foll: Slide stitches to end of dpn, pull yarn around the back to form a tube, and knit the 2 stitches. Beg at the bottom of left front and knitting with the WS of jacket facing you, attach I-cord around front opening as foll: *With the other end of the same dpn, pick up 1 st along edge of jacket—3 stitches on dpn; the third st is the one just picked-up.

Slide stitches to end of needle and knit k1, sl 1, k1, psso. Rep from *, knitting up left front, around collar, and down right front, ending at bottom of right front. Bring yarn around back of knit once more, and BO rem 2 stitches.
If you would like to further stabilize the front opening (optional), with magenta threaded on a tapestry needle, knit a row of backstitches through the center of the Icord, making sure to keep the length of both fronts even.

Embroidery for back medallion:
With copper Sari, knit 1 row of chain stitches around edge of back medallion.
With magenta metallic embroidery floss, knit 1 row of backstitch embroidery on each side of chain stitches, then knit a row of running stitches along the center of the chain stitches.
With magenta, knit a double-wrapped French knot in center of back medallion.

With lime metallic embroidery floss, *bring the needle to the front in the center of the rightmost Persian red st in Row 5 of the back medallion, then insert the needle into the center of the second Persian red st from the right, draw the thread through to the back; rep from * once more to complete 2 straight stitches, one on top of the other.
knit a second pair of straight stitches in the same manner over the last 2 Persian red stitches of Row 5, bringing the thread to the front in the center of the second st from the end, and inserting the needle into the last Persian red st to draw the thread to the back of the knit.

Embroidery for sleeves:
With copper Sari, knit 3 concentric rows of slip-stitch crochet or embroidered chain stitches on each green half-circle motif as shown in illustration: one around the outer edge, one with about a 1" (2.5 cm) arc in the center, and a third row evenly spaced in between.
With magenta metallic embroidery floss, knit 1 row of backstitch embroidery on each side of each row of chain stitches, then knit a row of running st along the center of each chain.
With peridot yarn, knit flower stems in stem stitch as shown.
With mulberry yarn, knit a triple-wrapped French knot at the end of each stem as shown.
With magenta metallic embroidery floss, knit scroll pattern in backstitch around each group of stems.
With Persian red yarn, knit 1 row of backstitch above the top magenta row of sleeve cuff (Row 5 of sleeve chart).
With 2 stands of teal blue embroidery floss and bright red and peridot yarns, knit duplicate st on Rows 2 and 3 of sleeve chart as shown.
With metallic brown/rose embroidery floss, knit two lines of parallel running stitches, one above Row 3 and one below Row 2 of sleeve chart, along the line of color change from MC to magenta. knit a double wrap at the center of each pair of running stitches to draw them tog at their “waists.’’
With magenta yarn, knit a line of running stitches between CO edge and garter ridge.

Embroidery for fronts:
(Note: Use consistent tension while embroidering, taking care not to knit too tightly.)
With copper Sari, knit 3 concentric rows of slip-stitch crochet or embroidered chain stitches on each green half-circle motif as for sleeves. With magenta metallic embroidery floss, knit 1 row of backstitch embroidery on each side of each row of chain stitches, then knit a row of running stitches along the center of each chain. With peridot yarn, knit flower stems in stem stitch. With mulberry yarn, knit a triple-wrapped French knot at the end of each stem. With blue metallic embroidery floss, knit scroll pattern in backstitch around each group of stems. With Persian red yarn, knit 1 row of backstitch between the 6th and 7th stitches from the edge, along the edge of the vertical magenta stripe, then knit another row of backstitch between the first st and the I-cord edging. With bright red, mulberry, and peridot yarns, knit duplicate st on the vertical stripe of MC as shown on chart. With metallic lime green embroidery floss knit 1 row of slip-stitch crochet for embroidered chain stitches along each side of the MC vertical stripe. With teal blue embroidery floss, knit a line of paralled running stitches up the center of each column of MC stitches. knit a double wrap at the center of each pair of running stitches to draw them tog.

Front closure:
Cut two pieces of bias seam tape, each 191⁄2" (49.5 cm) long, slightly stretched. Turn each cut end under 1⁄2" (1.3 cm), and sew tape to inside edge of right and left fronts, just inside the I-cord edging. Mark positions for twenty evenly spaced hook-andeye sets, the lowest about 1⁄2" (1.3 cm) up from bottom edge, and the highest at the base of the collar.

Sew hooks and eyes to inside of jacket along the edge of the bias tape, so that the I-cord edging conceals them when the jacket is closed. Weave in loose ends. Steam-block lightly.

LEIGH RADFORD is the art director for Interweave Knits. She lives in Portland, Oregon.

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