Some bras contain padding, ' padded bras '
Designed either to increase comfort, to make
"breasts larger", or to conceal the nipples. Push-up bras in particular
are designed to enhance the cleavage and use padding and the cut of the
pattern to achieve this effect. Breast pads or "falsies" are sometimes
worn between the breasts and the bra to give the appearance of larger
breasts. Google for padded bras. For other bras like strapless bras, search the internet, you can find a plus size strapless bra or an invisible bra too. Look for bra sale. There is a bra for every women.
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You love to sew and sewing your own custom bra
or you have issues with RTW bras.
RTW bras = Ready-to-wear or prêt-à-porter bras.
Sewing your own custom bras is very
addictive, you have been warned. |
Follow the instructions on bra making class 1 and 3, for the parts I
skipped here.Bra supplies for this bra;
Bra Back
Closure, I used a closure with 3 hooks,
Rings &
Slides in same color as stretch lace,
Bra shoulder-straps, 1 meter
Underwires, 2
Channeling, 1 meter
Sheer Nylon,
Lingerie Fabric, Stretch lingerie Lycra® ,
Charmeuse for lining the bracup,
All Over Stretch
Lace Fabric ( Stretch Lace ), for the upper cups and backside
Lingerie Elastic,
Rosette
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I want to make another 3-piece bracup  |
This is my bra pattern, you can't use
it, it is specially made for me.
Google on lingerie or bra
making and class.
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I want to make another bra with a bra band and a “cut-and-sew”
bracup (3 pieces)
and underwires.
there are basically 3 types of stitches,
Have a new stretch needle, a full bobbin of good quality thread |
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Sheer Nylon Stretch
Lace Stretch
lingerie Lycra®
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top;
lingerie Elastic, thin lingerie Elastic
bottom;
Shoulder-straps, Charmeuse ,
Back Closure ,
Rings & Slides |
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Trace out pattern pieces to whatever you like to use.
Make sure you have the stretch going the right way
Just add the seam allowances ( 1 cm
).
If you want to line the bracup, cut out lining fabric, make sure the
stretch goes in the opposite direction, then lay the pieces together, wrong
sides together and stitch on the edge, then treat as one piece.
Pin bracup wrong sides together, matching notches.
You will use 1 cm seams throughout.
Straight stitch together. I use length 2.0 on my machine.
Stretch bracup when sewing the upper and the lower
bracup together.
Fold seam line to one side, here downside |
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Before you can sew the 3rd part of the
bracup, the shoulder side must be
finished
with lingerie elastic |
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Note how long the band is, than
take 80% of this length for the elastic. ( lingerie elastic )
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Pin down elastic ( lingerie elastic ) and divide the elastic equally over the length,
there is less elastic ( 80 % ) than length,
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Use a zigzag W 1.5 L 2.0 for
first stitching, trim away excess fabric.
I used for lining the same fabric as the outside of the bra, lycra |
Fold to inside and pin down |
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Topstitching
- stitching with a elastic stitch
on the
outside
for the 2nd stitching
( topstitching )
from beginning to end, over the total length |
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Now the 3rd part of the bracup |
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Pin bracup wrong sides together, matching notches. |
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This looks fine to me |
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Stitching with a straight stitch and
stretch bracup when sewing |
outside |
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Fold seam line to one side, here downside |
inside |
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Straight stitch for
the 2nd stitching, stretch bracup when sewing. Trim away excess
fabric. |
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This is the first finished bracup,
one more to go. ( 2 more would be awkward, would it ? )
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Cut for the
centre T piece ( front bra band ) stabilizer fabric (sheer nylon)
I use a fading marking pen to mark all my notches
Trim away excess
sheer nylon.
Then sew centre fronts together.
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use Finger-pressing
- Opening seam allowances with the thumbnail. |
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finish the top of
the bridge
stitching with a straight stitch |
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back of bra pieces, outside is stretch lace, same fabric as upper-cups
and
on the inside lycra |
Sew side seams ( sew the side panel
to the front bra band ) with a straight stitch
I put some light boning in
here for support,
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Use straight stitch to sew the
boning channeling (casing)
precisely in the middle, on your seam
stitch all around, 1 time at the left and 1 time at the right side of the
channeling |
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I used 2 different colors yarn, one for the dark stretch lace and one
for the light lycra fabric Fasten bracup to midriff piece ( bra band ) , matching notches on bracup
seams to midriff piece.
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I use the tip of a small scissor, to push the fabric of the
bracup, when
sewing
Push with little taps in the direction of the transport of machine
and push the fabric down, while tapping, this way there will be no tucks when finished |
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Sew elastic at
the bottom of the bra band. |
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Sew the channeling on the bracup edge
seam stitches
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Now we have to sew the channeling down
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bracup looks good to me |
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finish bra underarm or armhole-and-back
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the underwires are in, this is where
the bra really looks like a bra
the bridge is
finished and strap rings are attached to the front of the bra |
outside of the bra |
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finish back, shoulder straps and closure to the ends of the
bra back panels. |
check the outside of my bra ( click on thumbnail to enlarge )
don't you love it ? |
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International Bra Size
Calculator
International Bra Size
Conversion
Bra Size Information |
4 hours later, I have a new underwire bra
the instructions for other parts are in class 3 and 4 |
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More help on sewing lingerie
sewing tutorials lingerie more help on sewing tutorials general
sewing tutorials
burda lingerie tutorial
burdastyle.com
The
Sewing Forum tons of information ( lingerie too )
last but not least; how to create your own bra
and lingerie pattern
patternschool
just great if you want to make your own
bra pattern
follow all the pages, very good information |
