breien, haken, borduren, kralen - gratis patronen site -         Jessica Tromp         - free patterns site; knitting, crochet, embroidery, beads
def: Stitch ; A mode of arranging the threads in sewing, knitting or crocheting

bra-making-lesson-3

Bra making photo tutorial. Make your own bras. Class 3.

            designer bras

The bra may also be worn to observe modesty or to present a certain image of femininity.
Bras are typically designed to lift the breasts from their normal position, for a more youthful look or for
enhancing cleavage.
Designers usually aim at producing a bra that fulfills a practical role as well as making it look attractive.
Reportedly, bras are particularly important during pregnancy (when breasts are enlarged and more sensitive),
and for nursing (nursing bra) to accommodate breastfeeding.

Some bras contain padding, ' padded bras '

Designed either to increase comfort, to make "breasts larger", or to conceal the nipples.
Push-up bras in particular are designed to enhance the cleavage and use padding and the cut of the pattern to
achieve this effect. Breast pads or "falsies" are sometimes worn between the breasts and the bra to give the
appearance of larger breasts. Google for padded bras. For other bras like strapless bras, search the internet,
you can find a plus size strapless bra or an invisible bra too. Look for bra sale. There is a bra for every women.

You love to sew and sewing your own custom bra or you have issues with RTW bras.

RTW bras = Ready-to-wear or prêt-à-porter bras.

Sewing your own custom bras is very addictive, you have been warned.

Follow the instructions on bra making class 1 and 3, for the parts I skipped here.

Bra supplies for this bra;

Bra Back Closure, I used a closure with 3 hooks,
Rings & Slides in same color as stretch lace,
Bra shoulder-straps, 1 meter
Underwires, 2
Channeling, 1 meter
Sheer Nylon,
Lingerie Fabric, Stretch lingerie Lycra® ,
Charmeuse for lining the bracup,
All Over Stretch Lace Fabric ( Stretch Lace ), for the upper cups and backside
Lingerie Elastic,
Rosette

  I want to make another 3-piece bracup  

This is my bra pattern, you can't use it, it is specially made for me.
Google on lingerie or bra making and class.

I want to make another bra with a bra band and a “cut-and-sew” bracup (3 pieces) and underwires.

there are basically 3 types of stitches,

   Have a new stretch needle, a full bobbin of good quality thread

Sheer Nylon     Stretch Lace    Stretch lingerie Lycra®

top;       lingerie Elastic, thin lingerie Elastic
bottom; Shoulder-straps, Charmeuse , Back Closure , Rings & Slides

Trace out pattern pieces to whatever you like to use.
Make sure you have the stretch going the right way
Just add the seam allowances ( 1 cm ).

If you want to line the bracup, cut out lining fabric, make sure the stretch goes in the opposite direction,
then lay the pieces together, wrong sides together and stitch on the edge, then treat as one piece.

Pin bracup wrong sides together, matching notches.

You will use 1 cm seams throughout. Straight stitch together. I use length 2.0 on my machine.

Stretch bracup when sewing the upper and the lower bracup together.

Fold seam line to one side, here downside

Before you can sew the 3rd part of the bracup, the shoulder side must be finished with lingerie elastic

Note how long the band is, than take 80% of this length for the elastic.  ( lingerie elastic ) 

Pin down elastic ( lingerie elastic ) and divide the elastic equally over the length,
there is less elastic ( 80 % ) than length,

Use a zigzag W 1.5 L 2.0 for first stitching, trim away excess fabric.
I used for lining the same fabric as the outside of the bra, lycra

Fold to inside and pin down

Topstitching - stitching with a elastic stitch on the outside for the 2nd stitching ( topstitching )
from beginning to end, over the total length

Now the 3rd part of the bracup

Pin bracup wrong sides together, matching notches.

This looks fine to me

Stitching with a straight stitch and stretch bracup when sewing

outside

Fold seam line to one side, here downside

  inside

Straight stitch for the 2nd stitching, stretch bracup when sewing. Trim away excess fabric.

This is the first finished bracup, one more to go. ( 2 more would be awkward, would it ? )

Cut for the centre T piece ( front bra band ) stabilizer fabric (sheer nylon)
I use a fading marking pen to mark all my notches
Trim away excess sheer nylon. Then sew centre fronts together.

use Finger-pressing - Opening seam allowances with the thumbnail.

finish the top of the bridge      stitching with a straight stitch

  back of bra pieces, outside is stretch lace,
same fabric as upper-cups and on the inside lycra 

Sew side seams ( sew the side panel to the front bra band )
with a straight stitch. I put some light boning in here for support,

Use straight stitch to sew the boning channeling (casing) precisely in the middle, on your seam
stitch all around, 1 time at the left and 1 time at the right side of the channeling

I used 2 different colors yarn, one for the dark stretch lace and one for the light lycra fabric

Fasten bracup to midriff piece ( bra band ) , matching notches on bracup seams to midriff piece.

I use the tip of a small scissor, to push the fabric of the bracup, when sewing
Push with little taps in the direction of the transport of machine
and push the fabric down, while tapping, this way there will be no tucks when finished

Sew elastic at the bottom of the bra band.

Sew the channeling on the bracup edge seam stitches

Now we have to sew the channeling down

bracup looks good to me

finish bra underarm or armhole-and-back

the underwires are in, this is where the bra really looks like a bra
the bridge is finished and strap rings are attached to the front of the bra

outside of the bra

finish back, shoulder straps and closure to the ends of the bra back panels.

  check the outside of my bra ( click on thumbnail to enlarge  ) don't you love it ?

International Bra Size Calculator       International Bra Size Conversion        Bra Size Information

4 hours later, I have a new underwire bra , the instructions for other parts are in class 1 and 2

More help on sewing lingerie   sewing tutorials lingerie

more help on sewing tutorials general    sewing tutorials

burda lingerie tutorial   burdastyle.com

The Sewing Forum tons of information ( lingerie too )

last but not least; how to create your own bra and lingerie pattern patternschool
just great if you want to make your own bra pattern, follow all the pages, very useful information.