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def: Stitch ; A mode of arranging the threads in sewing, knitting, or crocheting

83-bra-making-lesson-2

Many have questioned the practical need for the bra.

Many women prefer not to wear a bra and go braless on a regular basis. In many nations, including those in Europe, a bra is often not worn. Some have suggested that a bra does little to prevent the effects of aging on the breasts, and some have claimed that breasts are healthier when left free to move rather than being restrained.
Traditionally bras are viewed as symbolic of a young girl's coming of age, one of the tokens that indicate that she has become a young woman.

Sewing your own bras is very addictive, you have been warned.

How to begin with making your own lingerie ?

I followed a bra-making class and first I had to make my own patterns.
In the bra class, I learned to alter my pattern to fit my body.

I have a few basic lingerie patterns, now I can choose from thousands of fabrics and elastics
and make my own unique lingerie.

Copy the pattern pieces out and don't use the original to alter your pattern.
You have a master pattern and the pattern pieces are copied out
and the copies only are altered.
I scanned my patterns and every time I need a fresh set of patterns, the only thing I have to do is; print.
Never alter the originals, at some point you will need them in the original form and if you haven't used copies you'll have a problem.

It is possible to create a perfect bra. You will sew a few trials until you have the perfect fit.
After having got good bra patterns for your figure you will be able to sew luxurious bra with perfect fit in a few  hours. My time for sewing this 3-piece bracup was 4 hours.

Don't use too expensive fabrics for the first 3 bras or so!
After you have learned the sewing techniques it may be worth while investing in more expensive fabrics and laces. They didn't tell me this, at the bra making class.

As fabric you can use normal lingerie tricot or jersey.
You can use 2-way or 4-way stretch fabric.
Part of the bracup can be sewn of stretchy lace or lace fabric.
If you use lace or lace fabric for some parts of the bra, it usually is advisable to strengthen its edge with transparent elastic or very thin lingerie elastic.
If you want to line the bracup, cut out lining fabric, make sure the stretch goes in the opposite direction.

If you are not using power net for the T piece, ( or bridge or center piece), you need to stabilize it. ( always )
To get a firm band, the midriff part should always be sewn of double fabric.
Do stabilize the center piece so that there is NO stretch whatsoever.
We use Tule here in the Netherlands, perhaps you call it 'sheer nylon'

Furthermore you need lingerie edge elastic.

You can copy one of your favorite bras. Make a pattern from that bra by "reverse engineering."
While there are methods for pattern making from an intact bra, dismantling the bra provides a more accurate reproduction. Remember to write the reverse of what you're doing when taking apart the bra (i.e., when detaching the brastraps, write instructions for how to attach the brastraps). Google for dismantling the bra.

Always buy fabrics of a good quality, otherwise your bracups will sag.
And once you have used bra sewn to your own measurements, you never again want to wear anything else.

I want to make a bra with a bra band and a “cut-and-sew” bracup (3 pieces) and underwires.

there are basically 3 types of stitches,

   Have a new stretch needle, a full bobbin of good quality thread

Trace out pattern pieces to whatever you like to use.
Mark stretch and grain line directions and notches. There are only 6 basic pieces to my pattern.

Make sure you have the stretch going the right way.

Label everything! How many pieces to cut and what the part is (Upper bracup, Bra Band, etc.).

Just add the seam allowances ( 1 cm ) and you are ready to go!

If my instructions are;
take 80% of this length and so and so on

Than divide this ( for instance elastic ) equally over the length,
because there is less elastic ( 80 % ) than length

If you want to line the bracups, cut out lining fabric, make sure the stretch goes in the opposite direction, then lay the pieces together, wrong sides together and stitch on the edge, then treat as one piece.

Pin bracups wrong sides together, matching notches.

Stretch bracups when sewing the upper and the lower bracup together.

Fold seam open, Use Finger-pressing throughout - Opening seam allowances with the thumbnail.
Straight stitch for the 2nd stitching at both sides, close to the bracup seam.
Trim away excess fabric.

I put the underwire casing over this seam as well,
cut 2 pieces of the casing just under 1 cm from each end.

I put some light boning in here for support,
which helps when there are wires and when you want to stop the bra from rolling up!

As you can see, I put the boning in the casing, cut of the boning at the right size

Make sure the bones are out of the way when stitching over the casing
otherwise you'll break your needle, so stitch very carefully

Use straight stitch to sew the boning channeling (casing) ) 
precisely in the middle, on your seam
stitch all around, 1 time at the left and 1 time at the right side of the channeling